Canary Islands – Day 19 Part 1 – Tenerife

With time winding down, we tried to get in one last great hike, as well as several sites around the north end of the island. Off to the Canaria Pine Forest first!

Alas, it seems a popular spot! The section of the road which holds the hike we wanted to do was being used for filming. They shut the road, then between shoots opened it to allow traffic to flow through – but with no stopping permitted. As the filming was to continue for another hour or so, we were forced to find an alternate hike that crossed the highway with available parking. We ended up taking trail route 9 to route 38 to Cueves Negra. Another happy happenchance – a wonderful diversion again! We hiked right over the lava flow of Mt. Vico and one of the side vents we had seen from Los Roques de Garcia.

Dan spied the caves while checking out different photo angles – they are not well marked nor easily visible. Again, many incredible rock formations with pumous, lava ‘dust’, hollow tubes, and columns – looking like they were formed yesterday. Rather than loop back to the car, Mike & I continued on the trail which hooked up with route 13 – our original target. Dan & Suz kindly returned to get the car and meet us at the original starting parking lot. They ended up finding even more interesting caves given the different perspective.

Canary Islands – Day 18 – Tenerife

February 26 was a quieter day with a slower start. Before the rest of us got going, Michael took his standard early walk into the local neighbourhood on his photo quest. We headed to check out Puerto de la Cruz, which was surprisingly touristy. But it was good to see the more commonly experienced Tenerife vibe. Many more kitschy souvenir options – I even bought a couple.

Here we finally acquired our first paella at a lovely outdoor gardens hidden behind a nondescript wall. We also had starters of the now addicted to grilled octopus (amazing again!) and shrimp with garlic. We had yet another sangria – again with their local variations. This bartender used citrus and banana as the fruits and several liqueurs giving yet another unique and lovely twist.

On the way back we stopped by the village next door to our BnB to check out the photo ops looking back into our little village of Las Aguas with it’s amazing bay full of giant waves. But not much luck on finding a vantage point. We did however find a peaceful little cemetery with well kept grounds. So a coffee later we headed home where we had some very successful “Dangria”, did some photo editing and enjoyed some euchre.

Tomorrow will see us off on our last hike here – so need to get a good sleep!

Canary Islands – Day 17 Part 2 – Tenerife

And we weren’t done yet! We thought we were just going to head home, but we were wrong. For the route home we decided to take the other direction, the west route, and we were lucky that we did!

This route took us past Los Roques de Garcia. Not sure how we missed these in our research! These giant rocks are the remains after erosion showing the core lava chambers. From here you also get a panorama of Mt. Pico with clear views of its side vents and lava flows. You also find the dry ‘lake bottom’ where all the eroded sediment has accumulated – yet another unexpected find in this environment.

As we continued the drive back home, we entered another unique environment. Pine trees growing right out of lava rocks with no other vegetation – so weird to see giant pine trees amongst desolate sterile black rock. We decided we need to return here for another hike!

Then back home for our market dinner. Sliced tomato salad (our efforts to speed ripen the avocados failed) with shredded cheese; pan fried (no bbq here unfortunately) chorizo and white pork sausages; pork tenderloin; and our first, and successful, attempt at papas arrugadas. Topped off with an assortment of desserts from 2 amazing bakers. And of course, wine all around. Even cooking at home means gaining weight!!!

Canary Islands – Day 17 Part 1 – Tenerife

It’s now Feb 25 and our first ‘pre-committed’ day. Dan booked us for a guided trek to the peak of Teide – the third largest volcano on the planet. Teide is only 8% above ground – 92% is below sea level – although it’s peak is only 3,700 m (12,200 ft), it is taller than Mt. Everest when measured from the base. It was an amazing day! In the end, we had over prepared for the cold. It was sunny and even at full altitude we barely needed our hat and could have avoided gloves totally. It was perhaps 10C with full sun and no wind – so actually quite pleasant.

Our guide Jonathan was a glacial geomorphologist and very passionate and knowledgeable about Teide. In addition to all the info shared on the tour, afterwards Suz the geologist, me the wanna be geographer, and Jonathan, had a long geeky chat. He would love to visit Mt. St. Helen’s s it is a ‘living’ small scale Teide in it’s behaviour. When MSH erupted in 1980 it provided great insight into the formation of Teide. The current physical characteristics of Teide are almost identical to those of post eruption MSH – although Teide is 10 times the size! They learned that the eruption starts with a massive collapse of the cone (slide to one side), then the release of magma in a huge explosion, followed by the flow and fallout. All of this happens in a couple of minutes. Teide would have put up an ash cloud covering the entire planet and changing the climate for years.

I had no previous knowledge of the uniqueness of these volcanic island formations. The deep oceanic trench is just one part of their source. The collision of the European and African plates is another piece – but there is even more going on than those two factors can explain. It is much more complex than the Hawaiian islands or New Zealand, or Icelandic volcanoes. They still have much to learn.

The different colours of rocks and lava flows were a surprise to me. Apparently the longer the gasses sit in the magma, the more variety of rocks are created beyond basalt. You get the yellow rocks from sulphur, orange from iron, and much more – check out the photos.

As for the actual trek…. We started by taking the cable car most of the way up – to hike the whole thing requires overnight, and sorry but we are not up to carrying our gear to do that! You arrive about 200 vertical meters shy of the peak. I could feel the sudden change in altitude immediately – I’m clearly not as fit as in my Kilimanjaro days! Walking flat was fine, but every steep slope found my heart pounding and eventually my head. But I survived quite well in the end. And I still can’t get over the cyclists around here who climb the endless hills and freewheel down- even on the route up to Teide at altitude!

Climate change is having an impact here too it seems. We were lucky to see the Teide violet in bloom on the mountain (no photo sorry to say) – which used to bloom in June, but now in February!

And this was just the Teide trek part of the day… no more to be said – just check out the photos!

Canary Islands – Day 16 – Tenerife

Finally a beach day! But we started with a visit to the weekend market at Mercado Agricultora de las Guardas. The best market by far, so special thanks to Jorge for the recommendation!

We picked up pork & sausages, cheeses, produce and desserts for the makings of a wonderful dinner. Also several souvenirs including soaps. Suzanne was very tempted by the hand made ukuleles. Given the cost, they required a true commitment to learning, and in the end she held back. But not before we were provided with a beautiful serenade by the craftsman.

And then to the sand! We headed to Playa de Las Teresitas which is north east of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. This was the first ‘tourist enabled’ beach we have planted ourselves on. For 10 Euro each we have a chair & umbrella and beach service with a 10 Euro credit for food/drink. So a couple of caipirinhas, agua con gas and burgers later we had more than exhausted the credit! Alas, camera free, so no photos.

In the end, we decided to keep the market goods for dinner tomorrow and settled for salad and some other leftovers at home. So some cards and to bed – an early start tomorrow for our big adventure up Tiede – and we are all keen, but just don’t know what to wear…. -2C???!!!

Canary Islands – Day 15 – La Palma to Tenerife

Our flight out wasn’t till 2 pm, so we had a lazy morning to enjoy the finca and surrounds. Mike & Dan choose to hike up the trail behind the finca while Suz and I headed back to the local square to check out the souvenir shop.

The cat was still guarding the church – this time hanging outside in the sun. There was a very large group of German cyclists on a tour. Suz is quite sure that some of the bikes were electric. I fully expect so as the hills are extreme and they didn’t look overly fit or young (even compared to me!). They were likely on a day tour from the German cruise ship in the nearby harbour.

Unfortunately, the souvenir shop turned out to be a religious artifacts shop, with nothing of particular interest. So we ventured behind the square and found a path up to the peak where we reached the cross that lights up the sky at night. Back down to the square we discovered that the museo for the church was open but it was by now too late for us to check it out. We missed our opportunity to check out the different outfits for the Lady of the Snows. Suz has a new retirement ambition – to take the job as the person who gets to change her outfits.

Once again our flight to Tenerife was very efficient and finding our place was a bit rough. But we managed to find it finally although parking was a challenge as it was Saturday and the street parking was at a premium with all the great restaurants in full swing. It was another great find in a cute little village with amazing waves and 4 restaurants in a 5 minute walk. Unfortunately it was Saturday, so doing our shopping was a challenge. Jorge sent us directions to the nearest open supermercado which was a bit of a disaster. I think I misentered it into google and after much searching, a tour of the surrounds and many more hills we finally found a place to pick up our necessities. Together with the BnB supplied wine and fruit basket of apples, pears, clementines, bananas and papaya and we were all set!

Back home we had dinner next door at Casa de mi Madre in our little village of Las Aguas. It was the only one open despite it being Sat evening – lunchtime is the big meal on the weekends here. It was spectacular. We sat on the open rooftop patio overlooking the ocean and could see our BnB balcony. We have learnt better how to order and scaled back on the volumes to ensure room for dessert! Our waiter brought us fresh fish to select from, and we rounded out with papas arrugadas, salad, calamari as well as cervezas and agua (we bounce between still – D&S choice – and sparkling – M&A choice. The fish was prepared with almonds and done on the grill – it was superb. For dessert Suz and I had the ferrero roche-like choc with ice cream and Dan & Mike had the cheese cake; all with coffee. All amazing. Our dinner came in at 73 Euro (or about $55 Cdn per couple). Yeah, I could do this for a winter getaway….

Canary Islands – Day 14 – La Palma

Still here at Finca Fantastico and loving it. Today has hiking and beaches on the agenda. First off to the Caldera de Taburiente. We started at the visitor centre where we learned that you need to arrive very early to get a parking spot where the hikes are – by the time we arrived they were closed. So we visited the centre and decided to return at 4 pm when the parking lots reopen as the day hikers leave.

So some facts from the visitor centre! The caldera is huge – 8 miles across. You only realize you are in a caldera when you see the aerial photos, otherwise they just seem like steep mountains and valleys. Taburiente is the largest, north-most volcano on the island and dates from the 1600’s. There is a line of smaller ones going south that ends with the youngest from 1971 – this is the newest of the Canary Islands. There were great displays explaining the different rock formations including the ‘concrete’ looking chunks we found earlier. We have seen examples of all types in the field!

La Palma is a great source of fresh water for all of the Canary Islands due to the many aquifers all over the island, especially to the north. Surprisingly there don’t seem to be any hot springs or thermal pools :-(.

Next stop the beach! We headed to the black beach at Puerto de Tazacorte. We had hoped for a swim, but alas the beach was closed due to high swells and waves. We couldn’t swim, but the waves were mesmerizing to watch! Again there was a nude beach section with brave souls daring the closed beach- at least this time it was pretty equal representation of the sexes.

We had a very entertaining lunch on the beach front with musical accompaniment. The poor fellows serenading us had to be en guard as the waves whipped over the breakwater wall and they scrambled to save their instruments on one occasion.

After lunch, Mike & Suz hiked up the steep hillside at the end of the beach while Dan and I chose to walk further down the beach towards the marina and where we found ‘the real beach’. We all scrambled back to make it back to the caldera for our 4 pm hike.

Given the lateness of the day, we had to select a fairly short route to ensure we were back before dark. We had an interesting winding trail which hugged the caldera hillside through wonderful pine forests. It is hard to believe this is in the same family of islands as Fuertaventura – such extremely different landscape!

Then for dinner we headed to Rincon del Enano Cocino y Brazos. Great food, but again outdoor eating which was chilly. We had tuna croquettes, grilled octopus, seafood platter and seafood soup, D&S had octopus, pork & egges and a seafood platter – AND NO ALCOHOL FOR ANYONE!!! Probably just as well…. on the route home we missed one turn on googles directions. It happens – not a problem, google just remaps. Except that route B in these mountains ain’t good! 3 1/2 kms later we were home – but only after making 29 hair raising hair pin turns on roads which were 1 1/2 lanes wide (for both directions that is), in the pitch dark. Dan was our hero!!

Canary Islands – Day 13 – La Palma

This was a day of lovely little surprises. Mike rose early to walk around for photos and check out the church in the early light. Alas only the cat was there hoping to be let into the church, demanding quite vocally to Michael to no avail. So Michael headed back where we had coffee, kefir and yogurt and readied our day packs. The rest of us are slow enough that Michael had time to return to the church once open to get some more inside shots.

Our first stop today was Los Tilos for a hike up to the viewpoint/ lookout. It was only 3km, but mostly vertical! Dan burned 1100 calories according to his wrist. And Michael likely burned more – he carried his tripod for the whole trek. He needed it – it was quite dark in the woods with exposures pushing 2 seconds. We followed with a picnic of beer, cheese, bread and fruit along side the local finches – still no canaries though! They were quite cute – there was even a banded one at the lookout at the top of our hike.

Next stop, Charco Azul – the natural water pools in the black lava rocks. A surprising gem. We were hesitant at first but ended up going in for a swim. The air was not very warm and the water was cold – about 18C is the avg in Feb. I am so glad we jumped in – it was wonderful. I have never swam in such cold water and it was better than I expected. I wasn’t the least bit cold when we came out – I guess I was still numb.

Amazingly it is all free – change rooms, washrooms, tiled pool decks, and lovely landscaping and umbrellas on the decks. We haven’t paid to enter a single park or trail either – quite a refreshing change!

Next stop was a chance find which Michael keenly spotted. The Ron Aldea rum distillery was on the route. We sampled many rums – some close to cachaca as well as well aged ones. We also were provided with samples of flavoured gin, a very nice vodka, and 2 interesting whiskeys. If we can find the ‘grain whisky’ at the duty free we will pick some up – it is now out of stock. Apparently their rum is available in Canada now, but not sure where – will have to keep an eye out. Again – no charge for all the tastings which included their top of the line!!! Each couple did buy a bottle so not a total giveaway for them.

And on to home – but not before chancing upon another great find! This time we stopped for a photo op which overlooked some caves and found an archaeological museum – free again! We learned about the pre-hispanic natives who were here from about 100 BC to 1500 AD. The men were taken to Spain as slaves and the women taken as ‘wives’ – aka sex slaves. They were of West African descent and now are extinct. One theory is that the Romans conquered their land on the mainland and shipped some of them along with their goats to Fuertaventura. Another theory is that they came themselves by boat, but lost the technology or ability to return. Both sound quite slim to me….

Back home for a refresh and then off to dinner at Chipi Chipi which was excellent although we ate outdoors and it was quite chilly. Google had indicated $$$$ but it was similarly priced to other places here and still less expensive than at home.

This time back for euchre and agreement on tomorrow’s agenda – off to visit the black beaches and the west coast as well as a local town of Santa Anuz. Fingers crossed for a warmer day!

Canary Islands – Day 12 – Fuertaventura to La Palma

Another cool day here in the Canary Islands, but it’s a travel day – so all the better to wear your heaviest clothing! We had a double flight – one hop from Fuertaventura to Tenerife, then a second over to La Palma. Very impressive – we were just over 2 hours from arrival at FV airport to leaving the airport in LP!

However, finding the road into our BnB was another story. This is the steepest island in the world – and we fully believe that! The address for our accommodation was not unique, and we ended up climbing a seemingly endless maze of vertical roads before finally getting a better link from our hostess. In the end our place was not in such an inaccessible maze – although still tricky.

The effort was worth it. It is very different landscape here – lush and green. The AirBnB we are staying in is a finca (farmhouse) from 1898. Th animals lived down, the family up. But it has been very sympathetically modified with good electrics and plumbing. So much character in both the building and the contents. It would be a wonderful place to stay for a longer duration – especially if the weather was warmer. Michael thinks we should make a deal – he’ll work on improving the wifi reception in exchange for a discount long term stay. I can easily envision sitting poolside and enjoying the gardens. The fruit trees (not sure of the name!) have lychee like fruit but they are sweeter and orange coloured. We ate our share. Celia was very nice and extremely helpful – even when we needed to call her back to have the downstairs bathroom light repaired.

After settling in, we headed to the Parilla de las Nieves, the nearby restaurant around the church square, for a late lunch. I had grilled rabbit, M&D had goat; Dan’s with lots of garlic, Suz had calamari. We shared an avocado / tomato salad, manchego & ham and papas arugulas with mojo. All was quite good, but we were pushing their closing time for lunch so service was a bit off.

The plaza was very pretty with the church, Nuestra Senora de las Nieves (Our Lady of the Snows) providing a lovely backdrop. Inside the church were the carved wooden ceilings again as seems traditional here in the C.I.’s. It was also unique with red fabric wall hangings on the walls and over some of the windows. Not to mention the ‘house cat’; can’t say I’ve ever seen that before!

Then off to our mandatory HiperDino pit stop for the standards – this time including ice cream bars (that would be Michael!). So after the predictable card games and an non-conclusive discussion of what to do to tomorrow, that ended another day.

Canary Islands – Day 11 – Fuertaventura

Our last full day on this island and there is still so much to see that we jointly agreed to skip an island hop day trip over to Lanzarote – save that for next trip :-)! Today we headed back to the Museo de la Sal (salt museum) which was a bit underwhelming unfortunately. It only just opened in 2018, so perhaps they just need to perfect it.

This is an actual working salt mine at least – but as it is mid winter, it is currently not in use (our luck). The salt is supposed to be better when it initiates through the ‘blow holes’, or at least starts off frothy although no explanation as to why? The salt pans are quite aesthetically pleasing though with the varying textures and colours in each box as the natural gravity flow and sun baking effect takes you from water filled down to salt filled. It must look much better when in actual use – right now there are in disuse and need a cleaning before the new season starts.

The basil salt and thyme salt were quite nice, but expensive. We expected that we could purchase in the grocery store for much less, as we could with the cheese. But alas, we skipped the buy and never were able to find the salts in the shops. Opportunity lost!

Next off to the historic town of Betancuria – built in 1404 as the original capital of the Canary Islands. It was an interesting little town, but the church and tourist info centre were closed, so we sat and “enjoy”ed a cold beer on an even colder day. So off to the other favourite haunt (apart from beer drinking), HiperDino to pick up some aloe vera cream, Mojo sauces, and Suz got her much sought after gofio.

Then a quick stop by the local town of La Oliva to ‘the best pizza shop in the islands’ where we picked up 3 to go – 1 ham, 1 seafood, 1 pica pica which together with salad and wine rounded out a great dinner back home. And then we had to pack for next day travel – so unlikely as it seems another day to bed without cards!