On Sunday we started our Tuscany adventures locally from our home base at Borgo della limonaia Agriturismo.
First off we decided to hit the local grocery store where we managed to spend 42Euro per couple to last us a few meals. Filling up the gas tank came in at 92Euro and that full tank would get us through the remainder of the trip…. Derek’s tank was clearly much larger than the rentals was!
We filled up with coffee and pastries before errands and then a charcuterie lunch including some amazing cheeses and olives back at the BnB. Fueled up we were ready to explore Montecatini Alto (M.A.), the medieval hilltop town above Montecatini Terme (M.T.). Rushing to catch the last morning funicular to the top, Michael failed to realize that he had actually navigated us to the top tram station, not the one at the base. So we parked up top with plans to funicular down and back up rather than vice versa!
M.A. is built on a saddle, so has two minor peaks – the church at one end of town, the tower at the other. Unfortunately the tower was locked and the church was very dark. Originally the town was a walled fortress with 25 doors / towers surrounding the town, but only one of the one tall towers survives. At one end of town was a massive development complex which was clearly abandoned. The ‘Paradiso Hotel’ complex was confiscated from the Magliana gang and the abandoned eco-monster from the seventies is still tied up in bureaucracy with the Italian parliament. Otherwise, inside the walls the charming town was full of shops and restaurants around the town square.
One local legend is that a Bishop (future pope) was visiting Montecatini Alto and he got very sick. He went down to the valley below and the thermal waters healed him. So he mandated that a town be built, hence the origins of Montecatini Terme. The wealthy Florentine based Medici family were also strongly associated with the town and its waters, including being responsible for the demolition of the towers.
At 2:30pm the funicular started back up after the midday break, so we took it down into M.T. taking in the spectacular views over the valley. The funicular was built in 1898 and the two trolley cars, passing each other at the halfway point layby, still make the trip up and down regularly. At the bottom we went to find a cafe and in our search found the oldest of the existing Thermal Spas. As it was closed until 4pm, we ventured around and Marketa found us a great little spot hidden behind a nondescript gate. Behind the gates unfolded a tree canopied garden surrounded by a decrepit older spa with several styles of architecture all blended together – a very fun spot for a drink! Returning to Terme Tettuccio we sampled the waters (drinking them) surrounded by spectacular art and buildings. Clearly the location is a local favourite as we were accompanied by a wedding taking place in the central plaza of the spa. Apparently you can book a wedding there, but you don’t get exclusive access to the grounds.
Back up the funicular we had dinner in M.A.; an excellent meal! The starter was a bruschetta plate with various options, the highlight was with white beans, bacon, olive oil and duck. I had gnocchi with seafood and Michael had meat ravioli. Both were superb, everything accompanied with great local wine.
It was another day when we hit our pillows ready for sleep, although feeling more justified this time!
