Category: Italy

When is a river bed not a river bed? When it’s a hiking trail of course!

The trail on day 2 made hiking very tricky. The trail started out easy enough, but soon became very steep on a path, which for extensive sections, was clearly a river bed – full of scree and loose rocks and stones. It was especially treacherous going downhill. Amazingly, despite some minor slips, we all survived without a single twisted ankle, blown out knee or scraped appendage. It was a great effort by all!

The views were spectacular. We only came across one other group of hikers- the first we’ve met. Unfortunately due to our scramble climbing, we had to cut the trek short in order to meet our shuttle out. But we still made it to the edge of the summit surrounded by fantastic scenery and the Mediterranean beckoning to the north. Michael and Doug actually sprinted ahead to check out the remaining path which was in sight, but all agreed that we were safer to cut the trek short to ensure we caught our transfer back to the hotel – especially as there is no cell reception.

We returned with great hopes of another lovely Lemon Spritz with view, but to our disappointment they were closed on Tuesdays. So instead back to the hotel for some routine tasks and predinner drinks on the hotel patio for the ladies, beer and 500 (card game) for the gents. Before dinner we all cozied into Paul & Lucy’s spacious suite to check out Michaels video compilations of past hikes in Austria and Pyrenees, as well as Suzanne’s 60th birthday video.

After a failed attempt to return to our original lunch restaurant in Petralia Sotana, we landed back in our hotel for dinner. We sat girls / boys segregated which resulted in fantastic conversation at our end of the table; from societal challenges, special needs, thrift shops, sewing techniques, relationships, health care and more. What a great bunch of women!

And oh yeah…. Michaels phone arrived by courier!! Yay!!!

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Our gang of 10 had a great day hiking, but I’m quite sure not enough to burn off the extra calories consumed! First thing in the morning, Michael and I did our extensive ‘toe and foot taping’ (for blister avoidance) and knee taping (support for those aged joints) which seemed to take extra long. Although breakfast was served late at this hotel, we still managed to be completed breakfast and on the trail by 8:30.

It was a wonderful trek in perfect weather – low 20’s with a lovely breeze. We traversed some steeper hills first thing and again about midway through the day, but nothing extreme. The second set was a bit tougher as it was during the heat of the day. The lack of shade was my only struggle as I was affected by overheating. It was also a perfect foraging route with blackberries, grapes, apples, pears, plums and figs all in season. We also were accompanied by many cows, horses, and sheep – even flocks crossing the road.

At one point, eagle-eyed Mick rescued a small bird which had gotten itself tangled in the tall grasses. And again Michael had a brain blip, this time leaving his hiking pole behind when we put it down for a photo op. So he did a few extra clicks as he returned to fetch it – as did Dan who went back to get him. Later in the day, Michael again thought he had forgotten his hiking pole when we stopped to pick figs. However this time I had it…. but he didn’t know that and since he didn’t have his phone…. Once I realized he had returned to get it, I knew I had to go get him as he was never going to find it. Trying to catch up with Michael is a challenge I can tell you! But I managed to get close enough to yell to him and with a couple of extra kms travelled, we managed to return to Dan & Suzanne who had waited for us.

By 3:30 we joined the rest of the gang back at the hotel for hot showers. Several of the guys headed out looking to buy some well deserved beers. The girls headed out for a drink at a spot Dan & Suz had found with amazing views. I discovered Lemon Spritzer – Lemoncello and Ginger Beer – wonderful and SO refreshing! Dan headed back to play 500 with the boys and beers. We dined again at Il Castillo – the restaurant at our hotel. Their buffalo mozza was to die for as was the zucchini pasta with almonds. With Prosecco before dinner and wine with I must have gained 5 lbs by now!

Still no phone delivery, fingers crossed for tomorrow. It could get complicated as there is no one at the reception desk during the day, but the waiter in the restaurant very kindly spoke with Vera and we hope we have it sorted out. Fingers crossed!

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Sunday saw us off from Palermo first thing in the morning. In fact, we were so rushed that Michael managed to leave his phone at the BnB! We had walked the 1/2 hour to the bus station with our luggage before realizing it was not with us and we didn’t have enough time for him to return to retrieve it. Vera, our host, was very understanding and agreed to make arrangements to have it couriered to us at our next stop; luckily we would be staying there for a few nights.

Our stellar organizer Paul sourced our trek once again, and this time we were hiking in Parco delle Madonie. We would be staying 6 nights in and around the park. Our first stop had us stay for 3 nights doing a loop hike the first day of hiking (tomorrow).

After a lovely bus ride to Petralia Sottana, and a bit of a hike uphill to our accommodation we were able to get checked in straight away and headed out for a bite to eat. After a bit of searching through the small town, we returned to the first restaurant we had passed. Sue had found this great place to eat where the waiter spoke English and he arranged for our appetizers; the bruschetta like dish was fantastic – fried dried bread cubes with a very sweet tomato sauce, a pumpkin with cheese dish, and frittata squares. I had an eggplant crepe (I am NOT an eggplant fan, but decided when in Rome….), Michael had pasta with gorgonzola, olives and oil. And of course wine and beer and water all around. Everyone at the table, even I, was pleased with their meal – although it was a much larger meal than anticipated.

After a traditional afternoon siesta, Michael and I walked to the next village, Petralia Soprano. We timed our walk for the 5pm ‘golden hour’ for improved lighting which also coincided with the town locals traversing into Sunday evening mass. Unfortunately, the spot Michael had hoped to get to for a view back up to the town was closed with the road ‘gone’. But the journey was well worth it regardless. Both towns were lovely with steep streets which were quiet and well kept. The odd abandoned house only added to the charm.

Back at the hotel we had predinner drinks then off to a dinner of salad and pizza at the hotel. Well satiated we headed to bed ready to rise for our first day of hiking on Monday.

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Saturday September 17 was Cooking School at the Sicilian Pantry Kitchen.

As is Michaels style, he rose early and headed out to experience the city as it wakes up (while I catch some more shut eye!). He visited the Piazza Pretoria with the Pretorian fountain surrounded by many ‘au natural’ statues, the 12th century Arab-Norman Cattedrale di Palermo with its robed statues, then wound his way through to the main square, Palazzo Asmundo, catching home deliveries and window washing activities between the sights.

After a cappuccino and sweets we met up with the gang and Chef Michael no problem. We started at the COPA Marketa where we picked up some of the ingredients for our recipes. Chef Michael instructed us on how to pick the best tomatoes for making sauce – the driest looking plum tomatoes. We also picked up lemons for granita, swordfish for the secondi, greens for salad and side dishes as well as fresh herbs. Finally a stop by the butcher for some beef for the non-seafood lovers in the group.

We were met at the Sicilian Pantry Kitchens by Melissa and jump started our class with shot of coffee. Michael Sampson is an Irishman who is now more Sicilian than Irish having married a Sicilian girl and enveloping himself in Sicilian cooking. We started with making the pasta fresca di grano duro – no eggs used here on the island! The trick is the right flour – double ground durum flour – finer than regular Semolina. We made cavatelli – gnocchi like shells. Next on to the lemon granita dessert – and learned not to ‘zap’ the lemons briefly to get more juice – just roll before squeezing. Another trick – if making limoncello use thick skinned lemons.

On to the salsa pronta (tomato sauce) – dry tomatoes, tons of basil, onion only – the Sicilians never mix garlic and onion in the same dish; pick just one. Instructions included how to balance the knife in your hand properly and hold it gently when cutting. Rocking back and forth on herbs so as not to bruise them. Michael has used the same knife for 10 years; he only needs to hone it once a week or so and sharpens it once every few months at most. He never uses his knife to scrape food into the dish (well, maybe the back side). Next chopping the almonds for the breading for the fish/meat. Here we used the edge of the knife blade near the handle and were more aggressive.

And so it went on as we learned little nuggets of Sicilian cooking knowledge. Our lesson/ menu consisted of panelle (chickpea fritters), pasta with sauce, pesce spada panato (breaded swordfish), breaded carne (beef cutlet), and finished off with granita di limone. All accompanied by Sicilian wines of course!

The kitchen and dining room were decorated with wonderful paintings by Michaels wife showing the history of foods in Sicily through time. Very colourful and informative!

From cooking school Mike and I headed off to find SIM cards for our phones – great success, 2 cards with 70GB each and unlimited Italian calls, 30 min international calls all for 30Euro. Then Mike and I headed to Teatre Massimo where students spent their afternoons apparently. Dinner with Dan & Suz was a fantastic, cheap discovery. I had sardine rolls, Michael had spaghetti & clams, with red wine all around and watermelon for dessert – for all 4 of us it was 56Euro. Finally went for our first gelato – double chocolate, stracciatella, coconut and pistachio – none disappointing. We didn’t get back till about 11:30 – and jet lag made it harder to fall asleep. Regardless, we need to rise early tomorrow as we head off for our trek!!

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After 3 1/2 years we were back out of Canada!

This was our first extended foray away from home needing a cat sitter. With Kyle busy in his own home with his own cat, we were struggling with what to do with Picasso. But fortune shone upon us and we magically were delivered Freda through a county facebook community. Freda is a seasoned house and pet sitter who was born and raised in the county, but moved away as a young woman. Now in her late 70’s and living in Winnipeg, she was keen to return to the county to reconnect with friends and family – and she loves cats! It was a perfect match. So having settled Freda into our home and having made the suitable introductions between Picasso and Freda, we headed off on our journey knowing all was in good hands.

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We were concerned about the nightmares regarding Pearson airport baggage handling. So we packed quite differently this trip. We managed to squeeze all the mandatory hiking gear and clothing into our carryon bags. That still left one bag which we sent into the conveyor belt mystery zone – with all our hopes for a safe arrival in Palermo! In the end all went seamlessly and we needent have worried…. but how were we to know???

Masked up we boarded our flight for Rome en route to Palermo hoping to catch some shut eye. But it was not to be…. half way across the Atlantic an elderly gentleman passed out. There were calls for a doctor, and later on a call for a nurse capable of administering IV. As it was a full flight, his care centre was in the toilet stall kitty corner to Michael, with supplies spread all over the aisleway. On landing we were instructed to be patient while paramedics tended to the man. So as the minutes ticked away against our connecting flight, we empathetically waited along with the other hundreds aboard. As the 5 minutes turned to 20 plus, we were all more than a little angered when the man refused treatment! So the entire gang of 10 or so medics left the plane, as did the ‘patient’ to an entire plane full of enraged passengers. There is always something new to experience in life!

After some frustrating experiences with Italian bureaucracy at the Rome airport, we eventually arrived in Palermo with all our luggage. Dan and Suzanne met us right off the train which we caught from the airport and escorted us to our BnB. Dan had already contacted Paul & Lucy, and Doug and Kaylon had just arrived. Mick and Sue were due later in the evening.

After a quick change of clothes, off we went to meet up. Walking through the streets of Palermo on a Friday evening was a great introduction to the city as we headed to their BnB. The 4 years since we last met evaporated instantly. After the inevitable rowdy reunion; impossible to avoid with Lucy in the room, we headed off for pizza and a drink. Even the gluten free pizza was superb.

After 40+ hours awake for Michael, we headed back for an early bed. But before laying down our heads, we were treated to the local churches saint celebration. The lights all around the square and above the streets were spectacular and the festive vibe was contagious. Dan & Suz headed off to the parade, but Michael and I packed it in – tomorrow was cooking school, so we needed to be restored!

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