We have driven, or been driven around in, many cities around the world that are famous for their traffic bedlam. But none beats Napoli in my mind. We had very wisely decided NOT to drive into the city, but took the train instead.
After a leisurely start to the morning with Suzanne doing their laundry, some playing with Mowgli, and being served espressos by our host, we were figuring out how to best get into Napoli. Vera’s husband was more than generous and offered to drive us to the train station. Turns out that the tracks were out between here (Pompeii), and the next village until November, so he saved us the complications of car/bus/train by taking us to the train station at the next village. He is a supplier of beauty products for hair dressing salons and he picked up decent English skills from his son Ricardo whom he had sent to private school.
We walked from the train station through the colourful streetscapes of Napoli, first to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta. The Cathedral is lavish with works of art from the 14th, 15th through 18th centuries. The Cathedral famously houses two ampoules of the blood of Napolis patron saint, San Gennaro which are normally in a solid state. The main ampoule is brought out 3 times a year and miraculously liquifies after prayers. If it does so quickly, it is a good omen. It has on occasion failed to liquify and several of those instances were followed by disastrous events including 1939, 1940 and 1943. The people of Naples still have strong faith in the miracle and track the outcome closely.
Next we passed the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Rosario alle Pigne; actually we passed many churches but this one is photo’d below! And then on to the Naples National Archaeological Museum where the relics from Pompeii and Herculaneum were housed. Everything from statues from the gardens to everyday items were on display. The statues with painted or gem filled eyes were surprising but apparently accurate. The glasswork was amazing in its detail -although given the proximity of Murano with its infamous glassmaking I should not have been so surprised. The jewelry could easily pass as high end haute couture today.
Of special interest was the area with the mosaic floors which had been recreated from the actual pieces recovered from the sites. Entrance had to be specially booked to limit the number of people and you had to wear protective covering on your shoes. But you actually were allowed to walk on the same floor which had existed when Pompeii was buried. While the mosaics on site in Pompeii and Herculaneum were impressive, the recovered relics here were amazing. Some consisted of tiny fragments and covered entire walls with detailed images. Also on display were rooms full of frescos – each a work of art. It seemed everything was a work of art – even the massive amphoras were ornately decorated.
We also checked out the ‘Secret Room’ which turned out to be a collection of erotic and sexual relics from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Apparently they were quite popular!
Exiting the museum we were quickly reminded that we were in Naples. Absolutely insane drivers everywhere. The entire time we were in the city streets the sounds of ambulances and horns honking were persistent. I have seen greater chaos on the streets of Dar es Salaam, Thailand and Bali, but in those places there seemed to be some semblance of a common understanding of the unique rules of the roads. Here they just got into accidents!
