Wednesday Sept 21 was another perfect day for hiking. After clearing our hotel debts we packed ourselves and all our bags into the vans for our transfer to start our trek, bags to carry on to our next accommodation.
But today’s trek started off ominously. Our shuttle dropped us off at our starting point – 2 vans for the 10 of us. After much confusion interpreting the paper map and GPS readings as to which side of the road we actually were to hike from, we finally realized what had happened – they had dropped us at the wrong trail! With no phone signal due to our remoteness, we were stranded. Fortunately GPS was functioning and we realized that our trail was just a couple of km’s down the road (fortunately downhill!). Once we got that sorted, we were off!
We had options today and we elected for the 5km hike followed by a 9km hike. Again we were on a riverbed path, this time with a couple of slips but no injuries. With the scree and larger rocks on the path walking was tough on the feet and shoes. Although uphill was more difficult cardio-wise, downhill was so much more difficult and hard on the feet and knees due to the footing.
The scenery was once again spectacular and pausing to look back on the view it was surprising how steep our climb actually was! The 2nd walk this day retraced a section of the previous days hike. Again we traversed through a herd of cattle protected by many verbose dogs. We were sufficiently concerned that we all banded together as we passed through the herd and pack. The dogs had several adorable pups in their midst – balls of fluff, and despite the extensive barking no serious aggression resulted on either side.
Half way through the hills of the second hike, we started to spot deer and heard ‘weird’ noises. What we realized were deer snorts and grunts got louder as more and more stags appeared. We were surrounded by hundreds of them spread all across the hillsides. Many stopped in silhouette on hill tops making for incredible sights (Monty had no photos, so the one below is from my camera – apologies for the quality!). Turns out it was rutting season and the males were butting antlers, many grunting in low, loud groans. It was an experience of a lifetime walking into the middle of rutting season with so many majestic beasts.
In the midst of all the action, we were met by a guide with a group of young Belgians coming from the opposite direction. She was quite concerned about this bunch of seniors who appeared lost in the middle of nowhere! We had to prove to her that we were in fact in control of our faculties and not lost, and that we knew where we were going. Despite the unintended insult it was quite cute and touching!
On past treks we have strayed from the path on the odd occasion and this hike was no exception. The technology this trip made a huge difference though. Twice the trail totally dissolved in front of us and the GPS saved us from substantial trouble. Even getting started on the trail would not have been possible were it not for the GPS. The written directions and trail markers are great and very much needed, but the GPS was the big saviour.
We ended the trek on the edge of the park with an impressive steep lengthy cobblestone walled road. It must have cost 100’s of thousands. Several spots were in need of repair but it was unbelievable and must have taken years to build, all on private property. Unfortunately the language barrier inhibited us from learning any more about it, so we just used our imaginations to consider where such wealth could possibly come from in Italy 😉
Our accommodation this evening were highly suspect. It was an impressive complex in the middle of nowhere and apart from us was totally barren. They were ill prepared for our gang of 10 with only 5 beers on site and the house red wine was undrinkable. We polished off the white wine we had brought but that was it for drinks other than water. So when they called us down for dinner at 7:15 we got a fantastic surprise. We were served a 5 course meal starting with a beautiful antipasto plate with several cold cuts, ricotta, and sundried tomatoes followed by a salad with fig confit. Next was the pasta dish with eggplant. Then our primo of beef, potatoes, carrots in a wonderfully rich stew. Finally panna cotta for dessert. Only good wine and coffee were missing!
The boys returned to playing 500 while the ladies retired to our rooms – except for Sue who had a malfunctioning key and was locked out! With all the staff gone for the evening, Mick had to rescue the day by climbing through the window! And so ended another fantastic day for the group of 10.
Oh – one more mention – today Lucy and I found 3 single shoes at various points along the trek. Can’t imagine what those people did for the rest of their hike…
