Year: 2004

Friday July 23, 2004 10:05pm Figueira da Foz, Portugal

Every day we love Portugal more.  Mike and George headed out by 9am today to Batalha, Alcobaca with their wine museum and the battlefield of Aljubarrota (but closed).

Marucia, Patrick, Kyle & I went to the beach.  We had two tasks – one to change our 500 Euro bills and 2 to buy map for M&GL – no luck on either account.  The bank sent me to the credit union (wow – my first pen ran out of ink!  hope I have enough pens to get through the trip!)  The Credit Union only takes 500E notes for deposit – they can’t change them.  We need to go to the Bank of Portugal in Coimbra – means we wait till Monday – sure hope that works out.  Also – no maps to buy at the tourist info –so we just beached it!  Had lunch back at the beach cafe (24E).  The boys had tons of fun in the waves.  Kyle figured out the “boogie board”.  They also dug a hole and buried Kyle – along with a boy from France who’s parents were English.  Later they built a sand pile – but the tide washed it away despite their efforts to shield it via human shield.  The neighbouring Portuguese kids had  more success since they were up beach from P & K.

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Met back up with M&GL around 7:30pm.  After us beach folks all showered, we started on our quest for dinner.  Started by visiting the restaurant on the water side – but it was totally empty and the menu looked a bit slim. Decided to try another place in M&GL’s book – took a steep hill in Buarcos to the top only to find it under final repair prep for the August tourist season – closed right now!  So back down the hill to where we started.  It turned out better than expected.  The boys shared the seafood with rice, I had grilled fish, MIke had pork loin.  We also had seafood soup – sopa da mar.  75E total – then back for cafe & dessert.  Fig / choc / anisette / almond / orange / sugar – but not sure of the name!  This one is different than Marucia knows, but similar.  Will have to try her recipe at Christmas.

And now after much objecting to my not writing about his day, Mike is asleep – guess he’ll have to keep his own memories – perhaps he can write tomorrow…..

Not sure what tomorrow will be – if good weather maybe beach at Mira – or else Coimbra.

Good Night – time to sleep!  11:40 pm

Thursday July 22, 2004 10:05pm Figueira da Foz, Portugal

Not sure why I kept a diary when I was younger – but now I certainly appreciate that I will never remember all the details of these journeys – hence the long entries!  So here I am recording while the seniors and juniors play Bridge – Kyle is happy.  George got the espresso maker working, so we are happy also.  The weather today dictated that we do the tourist thing rather than beach.  Off to the castle @ Montemor at the boys request.  Not cost to enter – not even a donation box!  It was in quite good condition.  There was a section not very good that was the Princess residence – some walls standing.  Again the views around were amazing -.  The chapel was in quite good condition.  Marucia found a grave marked Ribiero but no date.  Others were from the 1600s, but hers looked older.  The paintings were still visible but faded – but the statues were in quite good condition – only a finger missing on the expecting mother.  (sip of wine .98E/bottle).  The lower wall was added later (main section as early as 988AD, lower perhaps 1200s – they are not certain).  I walked down to the gate @ the lower section – there were a couple of nails there – also saw lots of lizards; very quick movers.  Kyle managed to grab a tail but too slippery.  Amazing condition for something looked after and for no charge.

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Next onto Condeixa for lunch for roast goat – cabral.  Marucia & GL finally found us (walkie talkies came in handy – they now have quite a reputation for getting lost and taking a while to get turned around.  I think not knowing the language has actually helped Mike and I.  While waiting we had a cerveza and Kyle had a guarana – bought one for Pat also.  Had lunch about 3:15pm – quite late so not lots left open 50E.  Kyle had a omelette, GL pork; GL discovered Dao; very good.

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Then to Conimbriga (7.5E) amazing Roman ruins, from 1000AD.  The technology was most impressive – aqueducts and heated baths (3 temps – frio, tepid and hot).  There were mosaics on most floors.  Even indoor toilets with plumbing and heated rooms.  The basement room used charcoal (not plain wood) and clay pipes were used for the central heating.  There was also the main square in town with pieces of columns.  We did not go to the coliseum, but the overview showed it also.  All very Roman – amazing so few people, no active digging, and yet well preserved.  Kyle found some mosaic tile pieces also.  The museum had many artefacts all from the dig site here.  Some pieces were from Italy.  However brought with people or traded.  Boys shared the digital camera.  We will have to see what skill they have inherited.  Mike is in his glory – so much to see and you can get so close, and hardly any people.  And the cloudy day today likely made for better lighting (at least easier).

Tomorrow the boys want to hit the beach.  Think we will head to perhaps Mira – supposed to be good sand dunes there.  Mike will head south to some of the sites he wants to see.

Went back to grocery store – more Dao and cheese, guadana, fruit, yogurt.  Total 47E.  Boys are still bridging with M&GL.  10:45pm

Northern Portugal – Aveiro

Wednesday July 21, 2004 9:45pm Figueira da Foz, Portugal

Very busy day – but full.  Michael got us all up @ 6am, to head to Aveiro.  After a yogurt and quick pack, we were out by 7:15am (took a while to get everyone up and figure out our route).  We managed to get there just after 8:30 despite the lack of road signage.  Starting to understand the signs better – Highways have a min (blue) speed and max (red) speed, by lane.  Exits are marked with a count down \\\750m \\500m \250m then exit.  Town entry and exit are marked – meadhede means leaving town.  They also have “slow down” traffic lights on the road.  No exits or crossroad, just a light to make you slow down.

Arrived at Aveiro and had coffee(10E) and sweet buns and Ovos Moles (2@3E) and some post cards (3E).  Found the tourist info, walked up behind to the local old streets and saw the fish market.  Sardines, eel (live & gutted live and squirming) octopus, squid, salmon, snapper, sole, ray fish and lots of other not sure what.  Kyle is loving the dogs that run free (& the lizards) – although he met one @ the market that was not as friendly.  Saw the painted fishing boats in the canals (lots of canals in town).  Then walked over to the Musee de Aveiro(5E)  – the old convent where Princess Joanna (daughter of Alphonso 5th)  – how became a nun at the end of her life, (died in 1490).  She later became a saint in 1693.  Amazing church in the convent, (completed in 1713).  Her crypt was made of marble and stone.  Such fine detail in marble – with a phoenix underneath as well as several angles on the corners holding it up.  The whole room had inlay stone on the walls.  Then the church – all gold over wood that had been plastered.  The place was incredibly ornate.  There were holes for the nuns to see thru since they were sequestered.  Very old organ also.  Several paintings on the walls and ceiling also.  But NO Photos.

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Several other very interesting rooms.  The dining are blue and white tiles are older.  Blue and yellow not till 17th&18th century.  You could see where the repairs were done.  The whole convent was built over the ocean which kept rising (7m of water) – so the nuns moved up and up over the years.  Everyone tired.  Next off to Meahede where we found a popular local choice for roast sucking pig.  Very good and they recommended the wine also, (68E).  For dessert we had the walnut torte – very good and fresh.  Now to Bucaco – the forest of the monks (2.5E).  The whole forest was surrounded by a wall – inside foreign trees were planted.  Kyle got a great photo of an Australian buyana buyana in front of the hotel.  Marucia was impressed with cost of rooms only 150E to start (up to over 1000E).  The gardens were very impressive – lots of boxwood shapes – hope photos capture it!  and hanging vines and exotic trees formed into shapes.  The different eras of building were apparent by the style of stone work and architecture.  Some more baroque and carved (main hotel) with Gargoyles and tile frescos.  Then the adjoining section was mosaic with marble, quartaz, volcanic rock etc.

Finally a walk into the forest.  Quite different smell and feel from our forests.  Vines everywhere and obviously different trees.  No insects flying around to bug you also!  very pleasant.  Patrick was amazed by the large trees – not sure if he managed to photo any.  Kyle lead us on a very fortunate path.  To the edge of the sanctuary with a section of wall (looked like a movie set!) and a couple of tree crosses and a house, with outdoor fire for baking.  The view was breathtaking – unfortunately the peacefulness was broken by distant jack hammers – but you could almost go back in time.

More treasures – stations of the cross on the return.

It is amazing here – so pleasant and peaceful – not crowded or overly expensive.  We are loving it – Kyle wants to learn Portuguese and live here, can’t say I object.

Next back home (2.5E toll) and stop in for more groceries (16E).  Had a light dinner here and a couple of beers.  Hope everyone gets a better sleep tonight.  P & K want to hit the beach tomorrow) lets see what the weather brings for us then…. Bon Noite 10:30pm.

Tuesday July 20, 2004 10:45pm Figueira da Foz, Portugal

Wonderful day – absolutely perfect weather.  Hot enough to spend the day on the beach, but not sweltering hot.  I’m not even fried – a nice breeze all day.  We had breakfast here, packed a lunch and headed to the beach.  Rented a cabana (7E) for the day.  Mike and I took a walk along the beach (water is frio!)

In the afternoon we went for some cerveza and vinho verde (and boys had juice/pop) and some food – fish sticks and chicken.  Kyle had sumal and liked it a lot (orange drink) (30E).

Boys are still awake – had to check on them and encourage lights out – we hope to get up early to head out sight seeing tomorrow – not sure where to as yet perhaps Braccas?

After a bit more time on the beach took a long walk to the pier.  The boys loved the waves.  Saw some fishing boats coming in (from a distance).  Then walked along the beach road.  Lots of little cafes.  Have to try one especially since we have no coffee maker here.  Saw the sand sculptures and the boys tried a trapeze bouncer thing (10E).  Both were able to do flips (barely).  Kyle kept getting extra help to spin more – but I’m not sure he appreciated it much.  His arms were quite bruised when done.  By the time we walked back, George said it was 8pm, so we headed straight for dinner (without changing) to the seafood restaurant Abel had recommended.  We were certainly the least dressed given our beach attire, but just as well we stayed as it got quite crowded after we were there.  Boys had duck, George squid, Marucia fish (grilled) Mike and I split a mussels and rice – actually lots of mixed seafood.  We had vinho verde tinta 5.8E and the house white (1/2 l 2.5E).  Wine is very cheap food reasonable.  Total bill after desserts and coffees 91E.  We left 105E.

Michael just brought me a lovely slip of Port.  Oh its rough… He is off watching the Brazilian soaps with M & GL.  I really like it here, good retirement potential!  Bon Noite 11:20pm.

July 19, 2004 8:50pm Figueira da Foz, Portugal

Here I am committed as ever!

What a loonnngggg day……Can’t believe I haven’t been to bed since waking up (early no less) from after Jen’s wedding.  Our flight was late taking off over 1 hour but only ½ hour late landing.  Then long delay getting luggage.  Then the fun of picking up the car – yikes.  George never got one from this place; can’t say that’s a bad thing and we ended with a Nissan, not a Peugeot 307, large enough but very gutless.  We had troubles making it up the hills to the villa after much delay and confusion, although Pat had a good nap at the airport waiting for GL & Mike.  We got to the villa after more confusion about wrong directions from Abel – about 3pm.  Seems very nice.  View is great, very roomy and comfortable.  Wait to see if location is ideal.  Abel gave us some ideas on where to go shop, eat and explore.  The 1st shop he took us to was not very good, sold GL expensive wine and then tried to return change for 10E not 20E.  Won’t be going back there!  Marucia, George and I went for groceries & booze > 7E and 71E.

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July 19, 2004 6:55am Portugal

Were just getting ready for breakfast.  Patrick has not slept at all.  Kyle has tried with some success.  Don’t think Mike slept at all.  I got a bit.  Not sure about Marucia & GL.  Seats are too small for Mike.  Mike set a record for the stewardess – 1st time in 13 years that anyone has helped clear tables.  He got stuck behind the cart so made the best of it.  He even got some applause!  Sorry I missed it.

Our first screw up so far.  George thought the flight was to Lisbon – so our car rentals may be delayed.  Hopefully we can still get a vehicle!  No sight of land yet – not even ocean as there are lots of clouds.  Our food pack weighs less at least.  We did our duty and got its weight down.  Kyle is still actively trying not to get tooo excited.  Me too!  First journal in a long time.  Hope I can be as committed as in the past.

In the next few weeks I plan to add our 2004 Portugal trip.  Audrey and I, the boys and my parents ventured to Portugal in the summer of 2004.  This three week trip was the last time I used a film camera for travel.  My Nikon which I purchased for my 1986 trip to Africa was starting to show its age.  I used Fuji Professional slide film for this trip.  I normally used Kodachrome for most of my earlier trips.  The slide where then scanned on a 5mpx slide scanner.  They were then saved as bmp files, (I know that is not a good move, but remember that digital raw format was not out yet).    These bmp files have now been tweaked using Lightroom.  The written portion of this trip was from Audrey’s writings during the trip.