Northern Portugal – Aveiro
Wednesday July 21, 2004 9:45pm Figueira da Foz, Portugal
Very busy day – but full. Michael got us all up @ 6am, to head to Aveiro. After a yogurt and quick pack, we were out by 7:15am (took a while to get everyone up and figure out our route). We managed to get there just after 8:30 despite the lack of road signage. Starting to understand the signs better – Highways have a min (blue) speed and max (red) speed, by lane. Exits are marked with a count down \\\750m \\500m \250m then exit. Town entry and exit are marked – meadhede means leaving town. They also have “slow down” traffic lights on the road. No exits or crossroad, just a light to make you slow down.
Arrived at Aveiro and had coffee(10E) and sweet buns and Ovos Moles (2@3E) and some post cards (3E). Found the tourist info, walked up behind to the local old streets and saw the fish market. Sardines, eel (live & gutted live and squirming) octopus, squid, salmon, snapper, sole, ray fish and lots of other not sure what. Kyle is loving the dogs that run free (& the lizards) – although he met one @ the market that was not as friendly. Saw the painted fishing boats in the canals (lots of canals in town). Then walked over to the Musee de Aveiro(5E) – the old convent where Princess Joanna (daughter of Alphonso 5th) – how became a nun at the end of her life, (died in 1490). She later became a saint in 1693. Amazing church in the convent, (completed in 1713). Her crypt was made of marble and stone. Such fine detail in marble – with a phoenix underneath as well as several angles on the corners holding it up. The whole room had inlay stone on the walls. Then the church – all gold over wood that had been plastered. The place was incredibly ornate. There were holes for the nuns to see thru since they were sequestered. Very old organ also. Several paintings on the walls and ceiling also. But NO Photos.
Several other very interesting rooms. The dining are blue and white tiles are older. Blue and yellow not till 17th&18th century. You could see where the repairs were done. The whole convent was built over the ocean which kept rising (7m of water) – so the nuns moved up and up over the years. Everyone tired. Next off to Meahede where we found a popular local choice for roast sucking pig. Very good and they recommended the wine also, (68E). For dessert we had the walnut torte – very good and fresh. Now to Bucaco – the forest of the monks (2.5E). The whole forest was surrounded by a wall – inside foreign trees were planted. Kyle got a great photo of an Australian buyana buyana in front of the hotel. Marucia was impressed with cost of rooms only 150E to start (up to over 1000E). The gardens were very impressive – lots of boxwood shapes – hope photos capture it! and hanging vines and exotic trees formed into shapes. The different eras of building were apparent by the style of stone work and architecture. Some more baroque and carved (main hotel) with Gargoyles and tile frescos. Then the adjoining section was mosaic with marble, quartaz, volcanic rock etc.
Finally a walk into the forest. Quite different smell and feel from our forests. Vines everywhere and obviously different trees. No insects flying around to bug you also! very pleasant. Patrick was amazed by the large trees – not sure if he managed to photo any. Kyle lead us on a very fortunate path. To the edge of the sanctuary with a section of wall (looked like a movie set!) and a couple of tree crosses and a house, with outdoor fire for baking. The view was breathtaking – unfortunately the peacefulness was broken by distant jack hammers – but you could almost go back in time.
More treasures – stations of the cross on the return.
It is amazing here – so pleasant and peaceful – not crowded or overly expensive. We are loving it – Kyle wants to learn Portuguese and live here, can’t say I object.
Next back home (2.5E toll) and stop in for more groceries (16E). Had a light dinner here and a couple of beers. Hope everyone gets a better sleep tonight. P & K want to hit the beach tomorrow) lets see what the weather brings for us then…. Bon Noite 10:30pm.