Thursday, May 23 saw us in Dublin, back to the 4 of us well seasoned friends travelling together again. And with all our laundry clean and dry we were finally fresher and easier to be around. Our first day in Dublin was one full, very chilly, day!
We started early with yogurt/fruit/granola and coffee at the flat before heading out for our 9:30 Trinity College / Book of Kells Tour. It was a good 1/2 hour walk (lots of photo ops for Michael) and we had booked the self guided tour. The Book itself is very impressive, but sadly photos were not allowed so the linked website will need to suffice. The Book of Kells is over 1200 years old and although not overly long it is extremely elaborate. It is perhaps the most elaborate medieval manuscript in the world, and it is difficult to imagine how they managed the ultra fine detail of the drawings. All of the dyes were from local ingredients and the velum (paper) came from animal hides. It took about 180 cows, and the hides were soaked in lye and scraped thin. A definite benefit was that it was forgiving – errors could simply be scraped off. There were 4 primary artists and there were monks who did the scribing. There is a surprising amount of symbolism built into the designs. Not just which animals etc. were chosen for a stanza, but also the way they wound the graphics with continuity between them. It is extremely fortunate that it has survived.
Next off to the Trinity Library. It was in the process of a massive restoration and all the books are being cleaned and catalogued. They are being stored in sealed boxes until the building has been restored. We were apparently ‘very fortunate’ to experience the empty shelves as a ‘once in a few centuries’ event. It turns out that the actual building will be closed in the very near future. The extra exhibits in the library were well done, but I can’t help but feel that it was still not as good as seeing the ‘greatest hall in Ireland’ full of books. Other highlights included Gaia, a giant illuminated earth representation in the centre of the great hall. The hall is lined with busts of famous men, and in 2023, 4 females were finally added to the collection. I felt an affinity for Lovelace; Augusta Ada King, Countess of Lovelace, who helped design the first analytical engine, i.e. general-purpose computer in 1843.
Next we were off to the National Museum of Archaeology. On route Michael mistakenly turned one driveway too soon and was immediately accosted by 3 security offices for trying to enter and photograph the parliament buildings. It gave him quite a surprise!
All Irish government run museums are free. We were able to see the bog people easily and up close (although they are in glass cases for preservation). Ceremonial burials were common in the bogs from ~400BC to 400AD. They were extremely brutal times when kings were tortured and killed in the most painful ways imaginable and then buried (i.e. tossed) in the bog. Most of the bodies seem to be found while harvesting peat which itself often severely mutilates the corpses.
We continued touring the city and of course had to check out the infamous bar section – and made the mandatory stop at the Temple Bar. It didn’t disappoint – it was as rowdy as ever mid afternoon with live music and lots of hooting and hollering. The entire south bank neighbourhood is full of eclectic shops and artwork – so much Irish character. Once again we had a great lunch, but not cheap – especially now we are in Dublin. After a failed shopping attempt to find an Irish sweater shop, well we found it but it was closed, we were finally we were off to our Guinness tour!
Guinness have done a great job of promoting and displaying the beer making process. The four ingredients are so basic and yet so specific in the creation of beer – water, barley, hops, and yeast. We paid a bit extra for the option of a pint with our image on it – so fun although it did feel weird to drink your face! The tour ended at the top of the building with amazing 360 views all around and yet another pint. I had to pee all the way home! Back at the BnB we picked up a pizza from the square along with some salad and wine. By 9:15 we were all ready to crash; and Dan was already ahead of us on the sofa 🙂
