As Michael often does, especially in tourist crowded destinations, he woke early and headed out to get some photos before the crowds set in. The rest of us finally got going and were out by about 9am. And then we walked.
As our time in Italy was winding down, we made sure to start off with the new tradition of cappuccino and pastry. Our first journey was to the market. We bought some plums for snacking, but hoping to head out for dinner, we resisted the plethora of fish on offer, as well as the marvelously fresh produce. Not so hard to resist was the butchers where horsemeat was on offer. Most stall keepers were pleasant, except for one…. Derek attempted to buy some reasonably rare ‘Caesar’ mushrooms. The woman was not a fan of tourists as was apparent by her perpetual ‘no capiche’ thrown at Derek as an insult. Derek attempted to hand pick some mushrooms, for which he was promptly scolded. So instead he tried to point to which mushrooms he would like, at which point the ‘helper’ guy threw all the mushrooms back in the pile and turned his back on us. Despite the very nice looking caqui (persimmons), we refused to give them any business.
From the market we walked to the main square, then looped around to the east along the southern edge. Every turn was full of new sights and sounds. Venice is truly one of the most unique cities in the world. We find that as we have gotten older, and have travelled rather extensively, we are no longer as attracted to the ‘#1’ sites. We are generally happier to see the ‘#2’ sites where the crowds are much less, and that while the location may not have everything to offer that the premium site has, it is much more enjoyable. But I doubt there is anywhere you could go to that is a substitute for Venice. Where else do people have private bridges into their front door. Or a front door that opens directly onto the canal. Or where can you watch gondoliers navigate seamlessly around sharp corners lined with parked boats without a touch. It is truly a distinctive gem.
While out walking, we came across a police boat disembarking a squad of riot police. Eventually we discovered that no, there were no protests or current riots, but rather they were on the ready for the 2pm football match. At our selected lunch spot, the fan contingent, replete with plastic billy clubs, chanted and set off smoke bombs before marching off to the game en masse. We ate in peace and likely due to the surrounds, lunch was very affordable.
And then we walked more. We continued to meander towards the gardens. They were currently home to a massive exhibit, so we passed on beyond the gardens into the local neighbourhoods which were full of character, and void of tourists. As we continued our walk heading back in a wide loop, we caught a couple of art exhibits. One was a Chinese photo artist who used fisheye lenses. Another exhibit depicted important world events in multi media onto plates. We walked past the convent, the cemetery, church and the armories. At our afternoon coffee stop I opted for a barley coffee in place of an espresso. Can’t say I’ll be doing that again; it was okay but no substitute for a coffee!
More walking, and by 5pm I crashed back at our abode, Michael did some photo maintenance chores, and Derek & Marketa stayed out, pushing through on their last full day here. By 7:30 we were planning our dinner venture – which ended up being another search for ciccheti. We found another hopping area with bars across the Rialto bridge, although the age of the crowds there did make me feel older. Weekends in Venice seem to be well enjoyed by the youth here.
